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Lap of Australia

I am a 55 year old Motor Cyclist with an insatiable passion for Sports Touring. Being mostly based in the Northern Rivers region of NSW, I’ve ridden many trips over 20+ years, up and down the East Coast from Noosa to Tassie, riding most roads along and over the Great Dividing Range and Victorian Alps. I’ve done a 15,000k ride from Lismore to Kununarra and down through the middle to Uluru and onto Victoria back to Lismore, with my 15 Year old daughter on the back of my Honda VFR 750. I love everything bike.

At the end of 2015 I had a crash in Victoria on the Omeo Hwy near Anglers Rest. I was lying on the side of a mountain for 6 hrs, being tended to by local S.E.S and then treated by Ambo’s, all of whom I thank immensely. I first became aware of my predicament when I woke in the Helicopter whilst being air lifted to a Melbourne Hospital, with 4 fractured vertebrae, punctured lung, broken ribs and shoulder. It was 2 weeks in hospital and 5 months of re-hab before I could get back to work. I thought that to be the end of my riding. I was done. To this day I don’t know what happened. I remember having a pie about 40mins before and then waking up in the chopper.

My sister lives in Melbourne and kindly let me stay there for my re-hab period, after which I managed to land a job in Sydney.  Over the next few months, as I settled in, I was feeling a bit empty with no bike in my life. A hole in my soul.  I just wanted a bike in my garage, to tinker with and talk to.

I am a firm believer that if you think about it enough, you might just get it.  As it happened, I was helping a friend move house and I stumbled onto a one owner 2001 Aprilia Futura RST 1000 for sale. The owner told me to take it for a ride. It was pretty close to a year after the crash. So I did. Loved it. I knew nothing about this model so did a bit of research. It was Sports Tourer brought on to the market to compete directly against the Honda VFR800 and the Ducati ST4. It won the industry comparison tests for best all rounder. There were only 53 ever shipped to Australia in 2001. This was the actual PR bike used in the launch in Australia. I read reviews and forums. After 2 weeks of umming and ahrring, thoughts spinning in my head ‘should I really get another bike? don’t be a dickhead! what if…?’. I bought it, for no other reason but to have one. I had no intention then, to do what I ended up doing.

For the next 10 to 12 months I rode once maybe every 6 weeks, or less. I was riding the Old Pacific Hwy, The Putty Rd, The Bells Line and out to Oberon. It was all busy city riding and although still enjoyable most times, I was a bit hesitant to be out there on city roads and never really felt at ease. I wasn’t enjoying it as much as I knew I could. Like any good drug, I needed more. I needed a bigger fix to be satisfied.

I thought about trips I had done in the past. I wanted something new and challenging. I wanted to prove to myself that the Omeo stack didn’t dictate where and how I rode. Don’t let the bastards win. The Lap of Australia idea came about when I thought back to my 2009 trip to Kununarra with my daughter. That was big. I thought If I keep going past Kununarra, then I would be on one of the  biggest rides you can get.

The 18 year old V-Twin Aprilia with 74,000k’s on the clock was the perfect bike for the task, having a reputation for bullet proof reliability and good cruising speeds over long distances. It’s a bike capable of over 300k’s per 20 ltr tank which is what you need for this mission if you don’t want to carry extra fuel. So, 18 months after swearing them off, I was ready to embark on a journey that many others only dream of.

A Lap of Australia on a Motorbike.

Preparation

I bought a map of Australia and put it on my desk. I will always remember unrolling it. I sat down and thought wow, I’m doing this. This is the start. I looked at the map, taking it in. After maybe 10 mins of just looking and scanning it was “hmm, now which way?” ….. and the journey began.

There are a few different ways you can do ‘point A’ back to ‘point A’ which go from about 13 or 14,000k’s to over 26,000k’s. My idea was 6 weeks and close to 18,000 kilometres on only sealed roads.

I have done Lismore to Darwin and Kununarra before as well most roads east of Port Augusta. The west and south were new lands for me so I thought to try and work it out allowing for maybe getting off the bike during the day somewhere other than a service station and having some looks around. I actually had 7 weeks to complete the ride but planned on 6. At first glance I thought 2 weeks to Darwin, knowing I had visits and pop in’s up the east coast, 2 weeks to Adelaide via Perth and a week to get back to Sydney. This left me with 7 to 10 days for stops for whatever reasons. From experience, after 4 or 5 days riding, I will try and have a 2 night and full day break, otherwise the exhaustion can sneak up, which as we know, does not make the optimum rider.

The only planning I thought I could really do was when to go, which direction to go, and organising bike servicing and tyres. I chose Winter for the time of year with least rain. I chose to go anti-clockwise, mainly for Western Australia and the Nullarbor where I believe the winds are predominantly blowing westerly. I envisaged a cold and blustery Great Australian Bight, so any assistance would be appreciated over the 2000k’s. It also saves fuel going anti-clockwise as it’s about 150 mtrs shorter, I’m told.

I figured Perth, being about 10,000k’s into the trip, was where I would need a service and tyres. The bike is recommended to have servicing every 7,000k’s. I thought getting to Perth won’t hurt with it being long distances with no real stop starting. After a bit of research I found Dale Britton Motorcycles where a French mechanic knew of the Futura and it’s V Twin Rotax engine. I told them what I was doing and could only really give an estimate of when I would arrive in Perth. They said if I could give  3 or 4 days notice then there shouldn’t be any issues. So I ordered a set of Pirelli Angel GT’s, which is what I already had on. They are my regular tyre and I have done over 10,000k’s on them before. This was going to be a bit different for them though as I will be doing maybe 15,000k’s pretty well sitting on the centre of the tyre.

My camping gear was light summer set up, with a sleeping bag, micro fibre blanket, a very light tent that had seen a few erections in the past, and a self inflating mattress. I snuck a blow up pillow in there too.  As well as my normal set of bike tools under the seat, I carried a puncture kit and a can of pump up liquid, a big can of chain lube, some electrical and race tape and various size cable ties. Thinking that there is surely something else to take, I threw in a larger flat blade screw driver, a bigger pair of multi grips, a little hammer and an old clutch lever for no other reason other than I saw it sitting on the bench. I probably took more than I was ever going to need, or not enough. I’m not all that familiar with the ins and outs on this bike as I’ve never really had a need to work on it in the 18 months or so that I’ve owned it. I’ve only ever had the 2 middle fairings off when I washed it one time so hoping of course for no issues to arise that are out of my basic skill set. 

I also had an iPad given to me by my kids. I had never thought to bring one as I would have no use for it. Turned out that having downloaded movies and music was a welcome luxury.

After a bit of what if’s thinking, as a final back-up, I joined the NRMA. If I was more than 200k’s from home which at this time is Sydney, I would get picked up from wherever I am and transported to the nearest mechanic as well as accommodation until I was mobile again

Lap Complete

Well, here I am at the other end. Every day was a joy. The bike was a dream machine. The lap I did was 17,500k’s and took 45 days.

I was pretty happy with the time of year and direction I chose. I felt vindicated with my choice having the strong tail wind most of the way across the south. Besides a few days of rain around Perth, and the extreme wind and dust storm on my way to Broken Hill, I had sun and fine weather the whole way.

If you want to avoid having to carry extra fuel, it is confirmed that you need a bike that can do 300k’s on one tank. You can find 95ron fuel everywhere and it can be up over a $1 more per litre than in the city. In hindsight, with that decision after Walcha to head back up to Lismore with the extra days I tacked on to the end, I could have actually done the Great Ocean Road and the 18,000k’s I thought it was going to be. I did in fact end up doing 18,000 for that trip, but in a bit of a roundabout way.

There is plenty of accommodation. In the outback towns, the pub’s are mostly old school with beds from $40 to $60 and a bit of brekky if you’re lucky. You can double those prices on any coastline. At the road houses it could be $10 for a tent spot or $90 for a room or donga. With that said, if you can carry your own sleeping arrangements you will save heaps, like around $1000 a fortnight.

Our road kill on the East Coast is a greatly different experience with what happens out west. Everything is bigger out there. The ‘roos are huge, as are the camels and buffalo. Camouflaged things can appear pretty quickly at the speeds that are travelled out there, and some of those beasts are the same colour as the road. Watch out for them alive or dead. As well as having to deal with birds and lizards and wombats and goats, emu’s are the winners of the ‘watch out for’ category. They have no idea. They are big, fast and absolutely confused.

Without the touristy stops but with regular rest stops, I think the lap can be done in 35 days, which is what I might try and do next time.

Day 45

The last day. A great way to start any day with a nice sunny morning ride down Thunderbolts. I stopped at the lookout, and looked out. I sat there for maybe 45mins. . It was a great spot to just take it in and think about things for a sec.

1 more fuel stop and I’m home. I had done it. I know it sounds a bit cliche but WE had done it. If I was ever going to get an attachment to a bike, this was it. The Aprilia Futura RST1000. Comfortable, strong, great touring reliability.

And in that thought process, I thought I’ve actually still got 6 days before I had to go back to work. I’d originally kept those days up my sleeve because I thought that I may need recovery time. But I didn’t. I wanted to keep riding and not finish today, The decision was made and I turned around to go back up to Lismore, which I could reach by the end of the day. The Waterfall Way to Grafton with a quick detour for Dorrigo Mountain, these great roads are my home. LAP COMPLETE.

Day 44

Woke this morning knowing it was pretty much the last day. As I was preparing, in no hurry, I mentioned to the Motel owner what I had just done and was about to finish. He was a bit chuffed that his was my last stop and he wiped my bike down for me with a nice white towel from my room.

I took off and reached Tamworth by early arvo. I could have turned right and got home to Sydney, but 1 more day would be nice. I stayed at Walcha that night at The New England Hotel.

Day 43

I rode off this morning knowing I was riding into my last night. I didn’t want it to end. I just want to keep riding. When I got to Nyngan I decided to go a little bit north. Rather than go to Sydney via Dubbo, I decided to head to Tamworth and onto Walcha for a familiar ride back down Thunderbolts Way to Gloucester. I reached Gilgandra where the servo guy pointed me to The Silver Oaks Motel, which was $70 and right next door to the Bowlo which was handy.

Day 42

Woke this morning and realised it was day 42. As per original plan, I’m supposed to be home. Living the dream kind of got away from me. Port Augusta became my next target and then to cut through to Broken Hill.

It was pretty windy with dust and bits of bush rolling all over. I cut back across to Wudinna on the Eyre Hwy. When I turned onto the Eyre, on my left coming in from the North East was a big red wall of dust When it hit me about 1/2 hr later, vision was sometimes down to maybe 10 metres. I had to ride in the windiest conditions I have ever been in in my life.

I reached Port Augusta at midday and probably should have stopped, but the days had gotten away from me and I felt I needed to push on.

I ended up reaching Broken Hill and was absolutely exhausted. It was the hardest day of riding I had done, probably ever, hanging off the side of the bike for 9 hrs.

Day 39 – 40

Today was a short run to Nullarbor Roadhouse only 400k’s away. It’s also the other end of the Nullarbor. At times, the road is quite close to the Bight and makes for a couple of scenic stops. With temps in the low to mid 20’s and a strong tail wind all the way, conditions were perfect.

The roadhouse is the closet place to stay when going to look at the whales breeding at Head of Bight. Peak period is now, July/August,

Day 38

The Nullarbor beckoned and it was back to the start of it at Norseman Roadhouse. There are all sorts of travellers here and its quite busy. As I was leaving and rolling onto The Eyre Highway, with a strong westerly blowing from behind me, I got a friendly wave from what I would guess to be the only Highway Patrol, just turning in to the servo.

Long and straight, up a bit and down a bit. There are lots of long straight roads in this country, and this section is the boss.

About 530k’s down the road, I ended up at Madura, a Roadhouse with cabins, a cosy pub and great food. One of the people I met here was an English girl attempting a world record for quickest lap of riding the world, on her pushbike.

Day 37

The plan today was to start the Nullarbor. A short 2 hr ride to Norseman and that was the beginning. When I reached Norseman, I saw the sign for Kalgoorlie which was only another 190k’s, so thinking I was was this close, decided to head there.

A mining town with plenty of ute’s and Harley’s greeted me when I arrived, as did the Skimpies, the near naked girls behind the bar.

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