I left Perth and went south, in absolute pouring rain. I was soaked though, and freezing. I could ride no more after 4 hrs and ended up in Dunsborough at Occy’s. This place wins the friendliest most welcoming pub in Australia. Fed me warm pumpkin soup with big chunks of bread and let me spead my wet stuff out in front of the fire. I sat for maybe another 4hrs while the cold and wet went on outside. They also pointed me in the direction of a $25 backpackers which was great.
I used this as a bit of a base to leave my luggage and then ride around the South Coast which, as well as having good riding roads, has a few places of interest like Margaret River and other coastal and wine regions.
Arrived in Perth and had travelled 10,400 k’s. I had a few friend options for accommodation and the bike service booked in for the next day. The tyres had run well, with a few thousand left on them but the time to change them was now. The guys at Dale Britton Motorcycles, Victoria Park, including Dale himself, looked after me while I waited around, and returned a very clean, serviced with tyres Aprilia. I was ready for the crossing back to the east. With the weather turning to winter, I also sent my big bag of camping gear home.
I woke to a cold morning and rain on the forecast. I’d ridden back in to winter. Perth was my next destination and stop for a few days, about 850k’s. I reached Geraldton and the drizzle started. I pushed on another 60k’ and I was welcomed at the Dongara Hotel.
Early start to get to Denham, which is near Monkey Mia. It is also the most westerly point of Australia. I reached Denham after a 10 hr day. It is much cheaper to stay here than at Monkey Mia. I found the info I needed for the dolphins at Monkey Mia. The night was my first encounter with dew while camping and it was apparent that my tent was not very dry. I was up at sunrise and rode through the fog and many wallabies to maybe go feed some dolphins.
It seems I wasn’t the only one with the same idea. Most of the people here were staying at the resort.
Only the random people selected are allowed to feed the dolphins. It is a very controlled environment.
From sunrise in the east to the sunset in the west. I nearly went blind staring at this sunset. It was very peaceful, a time to think about the enormity of what I was doing. I had reached the furthest point from home.
Next planned stop is Monkey Mia, about 1200k’s. Karratha was first fuel. At the servo I saw a sign saying 20k’s to Dampier on the coast. I thought that could be a lunch stop so headed there.
A sea-food lunch in a waterfront pub followed by a walk along the bay, It’s a relaxed water town and Dampier turned out to be a great little find. I’d only ridden about 3 1/2 hrs but as I was in no hurry to get anywhere, I decided to stay the night.
Today’s destination is Port Hedland, about 765k’s and there doesn’t appear to be much in between. This 1st stretch to Sandfire Roadhouse is 2nd longest between fuel pumps for the whole trip, about 290k’s.
I arrived in Port Hedland and entered a busy workers town. This is no tourist mecca. It is a busy port and mining industries region. I ended up at the only visible pub down by the waterfront, The Esplanade Hotel.
It is big renovated old style pub and was packed. I enquired into a room and was told $180. This hotel just won the most expensive pub room in Australia award. Back on the bike and found a bed for $62 at a Discovery Parks grounds. It appeared to be the place of choice for all types of accommodation seekers and transient working population.
There will never be a shortage of salt in Port Hedland.
This morning I was off to Broome which was only 220k’s. I’d heard of Cable Beach before so followed the signs to there. The caravan park was full. Couldn’t even fit 1 motorbike and a skinny little tent. This whole area is screaming tourism with ocean front resorts and restaurants..
I rode around for a while and ended up at the other end of town at Broome Beach. $80 for a tent spot, compared to $15 or less I had been paying. I was soon to learn that everything is expensive here. There’s a China Town area in amongst the wharf’s and fishing boats.
I saw that a popular day trip was to Horizontal Falls in a sea plane. I thought to go back to Derby, which was cheaper to stay at and a lot less touristy, and do that trip from there.
There is nothing out here. Just red soil and rock. A couple of people along the way had recommended not to stay at Fitzroy Crossing which was about 650k’s, as the locals could take a liking to what’s not their’s. I planned on trying to get as far as Broome which was just over 1000k’s.
I got as far as Willare, 875k’s and stopped for a break. It had been a hot and dry day and about 8.5hrs including stops. It was another 170k’s to Broome with full sun in my face, or go back a few k’s and turn to Derby and be there in 1/2 hr.
I reached Derby and rode through and back and around. I found the camping area and was made to feel very welcome. There is a lot of tourist information scattered around and I become aware that I am now in The Kimberley Region.
I stayed in Derby for the next day and found it to be a really laid back, quiet little place, with access to the whole North West of Australia, both Land and Sea.